There are more spas per square inch in the suburbs of Pretoria than any other place I know of. Katie took me to the Soulstice spa – a place on the edge of town, where you can take a sauna or steam bath while looking out at farm fields. It was as if I had walked into a copy of Architectural Digest.

After two hours of pampering we had a light lunch, as one should. The masseuses would probably not have approved of the glass of white wine but we felt that the healthy salad compensated for any unwanted toxins.

Next week I am tempted to go into the Amethyst Rasul Chamber. According to the brochure it is based on the traditional Turkish bath and involves exfoliating and cleansing rituals with mud, followed by a tropical rain shower – and you can do it with a friend or partner.  And then there is the flotation treatment, which is described as going back into the womb. One of the masseuses has done it but she said she got bored very quickly. I thought about our grandson to be – he is doing somersaults, out of boredom I wonder?

The days and night of rain are harbingers of winter I was told. Winters here are nothing like winters in Massachusetts but it does get nippy. I learned there is under-floor heating in the apartment; I am checking out the bathroom floor heat tonight, just to enhance the bath taking experience.

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